tan and Freddy headed out of Sciacca towards the last of Sicily’s three great anciet Greek sights, Agrigento. Their destination for the day, Realmote, was 52 kilometers away, and still 13 kilometers from the temple.

The road was relatively easier-going – mostly following the coast – and they eventually arrived at the tiny town of Montellegro. Here Freddy had found a winery, and hoped to be able to visit. He had tried to visit a few wineries unannounced in the previous couple days, but was every time rebuffed.

Freddy called the winery and, in passable Italian, asked if it was possible to do a tour. It was! But not quite yet. The owner of the winery suggested a place to get lunch, Capitulo Uno. The pair leaned their bikes against the wall of this fine dining establishment in the middle of nowhere.

The restaurant was unquestionably classy, with a large skylight providing most of the interior’s illumination. Freddy – as was his wont – immediatly wanted the tasting menu. Stan, a man of lesser appetites, was prepared to content himself with a course or two. As our server brought the wine, she forrowed her brows at poor Stan.

“I’m sad for you! Sad for you you are not getting the tasting menu!” she barked to a nonplussed Stan. “Very sad! I tell you, if you want, you don’t have fish tasting menu like your friend. We make you meat tasting menu.”

Reluctantly, Stan agreed, and the tasting began – one sumptuous plate after another.

When dinner was over, Stan and Freddy biked on to the winery. This particular winery turned out to be a few stills in the owners garage. The owner taught Stan and Freddy a bit about wine and let them try his unblended wines – not quite ready for normal human consumption. Unfortunately, there was no time to accompany him to see his vineyards. Stan and Freddy thanked the nice man and continued on their way.

Continuing on, Stan and Freddy again followed the ever-treacherous Google Maps down a road which was closed to vehicles. They passed caves, mountains, and more of the very impressive Italian highways on stilts, to find a closed down bridge. Not in the least deterred, they hoisted their bicycles over the barrier and were on their way.

Freddy and Stan arrived in Realmonte to meet their Airbnb hostess, who did not speak English but, to the two boys’ delight, spoke fluent French! They would learn that many Sicilians spoke French.

She let them into the Airbnb, where Stan said he preferred to rest and conserve his energy. Freddy, not going to miss his chance to see Realmonte nightlife, struck out on his own.

The town had a lit public square where the youths discussed the major philosophical issues of the day. Freddy found a restaurant with adequate food, and exceptional Realmonte olive oil. His dinner complete, he walked about town, where he say a small crucifixional processional.

On his way home, Freddy heard two cats hissing and snarling at one another. He walked and looked down at one cat pummeling another. The two cats stared at him, surprised at the human observer of their cat world. The victimized beta cat soon took this opportunity to bolt. Freddy watched his pursuer chase after him; a few seconds later he heard a yelp of pain as the lesser cat was, presumably, caught.

Continuing down the poorly lit street, Freddy was accosted by two stray dogs. They not only barked at him, but circled him, one on one side and one on the other. Freddy bared his teeth, growled in return, and backed away.

Wild are the nights in Realmonte.